Rebuilding Flooded Walls & Insulation
We are currently using 3 methods to rebuild back the interior of the walls and insulate them after flood damage. They all involve closed cell foam which creates a waterproof, airtight seal. The gypsum board behind the walls attached to the studs has been removed from moisture damage. This board dries out very quickly and will become stable and usable if left in place.
If your home had most of the gypsum board removed all the way up the walls after the flood this is most likely due to moisture being trapped in your walls, and in some cases has very little to do with the flooding. Brick is a porous material that is made to pass water and moisture through the brick that makes it way down the gypsum board to be passed out of the weep holes at the bottom of the wall. We have been in hundreds of homes and seen all of the weep holes blocked with old mortar, cement, dirt and debris. Because of this moisture sat in the walls and literally kept the gypsum board wet for years, it now needs full replacement.
This is an example of a gypsum board wall that was under 4 foot of water for three weeks that has dried and now is ready for foaming. This wall does not need rebuilding and is ready to foam up.
Before we get to spray foaming we must rebuild the walls correctly. We will first secure all the brick ties back onto the framing to stabilize the wall. All of the brick ties that we have seen are rusted and unattached. We will use Brackets and attach the wall back to the brick before starting the project. Then we will go to the bottom of the wall and drill new weep holes giving the water and moisture a way out. By doing these 2 things we have created a healthy wall space that can pass moisture through the brick and out the weep holes.
New Weep Holes Drilled Above Foundation For Moisture Relief
Upon securing the air flow in the walls we will then begin the process to build out a barrier that will allow us to keep an air space between the brick wall and the framing of the house. This will be done in 3 different methods, so we have a program for every budget.
AIR GAP BETWEEN BRICK AND WALL
If your gypsum board is still intact we will spray closed cell foam over the top of it at 1 to 2 inches paying special attention to close every crack, gap or space that will allow air flow. The closed cell foam is a high density foam which will create a waterproof, airtight seal. It will hold itself in place for the life of the wall as long as the wall and brick are secure.
SPRAYFOAM WITH MOISTURE PROOF BACKING
The first and most economical way is for us to use a waterproof fabric that is used in walls for fiberglass installation, and staple it onto the sides of the joists all around the inner walls of the house. Once the spray foam is applied it creates a solid hard waterproof backing while leaving the 2 to 3 inch gap behind your wall. This is the most economical way. The following video shows us using the waterproof wall netting in conjunction with the spray foam to create a waterproof, airtight wall on the other side of the 2 inch air cavity.
SPRAYFOAM WITH RADIANT BARRIER FOAMBOARD BACKING
The second way we prepare the walls for foaming is to install a ½ inch or ¾ inch Insulated Foam Board between the joists, and spray the foam on top and sides for added insulation. The back of the foam board has a radiant barrier, adding an additional insulating quality. This can make your home like an ice chest holding in cold and hot air. The foam board must be used in all garages to stop the air flow and sealed around the edges with the foam to omit air and moisture flow.
SPRAYFOAM BEHIND THE STUDS WITH FOAMBOARD BACKING & RADIANT BARRIER
The third way, and most expensive way, is to put the foam board behind the studs on the wall, and closed cell foam them shut on the edges. This will take 10 times longer to do the job. We also take a risk on damaging the brick ties that are attached to the frames, or damaging the integrity of the mortar that has been pressed against the gypsum board. This is very hard to do for several reasons. The gypsum board that came off the wall is 3/8 inches wide. The gaps between the mortar and the frames are smaller than the opening and also have brick ties attached to the frame. The other option when you get to this point is to take the wall down. Taking out all of the nails on the back of the studs is time consuming. Then we must cut the board around the brick ties and knock of all of the mortar off the wall so the new panels will fit. This option is very expensive, can damage the brick and mortar, and takes much longer than the other methods listed above. If this is the method you choose please call us for pricing.
New Foam Board BehindThe Studs Sealed With Closed Cell Foam
PRICING FOR 2 INCHES Closed Cell Foam
The first step on pricing is to give you numbers on what it will take to fix the wall properly. If your wall is secure and airtight we can just spray foam right on top of the gypsum board at $2.50 Per Square Foot.
If we come in and install the waterproofing net between the joists and spray the foam in at 1.5 to 2 inches it will be $3.50 Per Square Foot for those areas of your walls.
If we install the foam board in between your joists, and then spray 2 inches of closed cell spray foam it will be $6.00 Per Square Foot.
If you choose for us to come in and tackle the task of getting the foam board behind the studs and then sealing with 2 inches of closed cell spray foam, please call us for pricing information after a full evaluation. This is getting to an area that is very costly.