How To Rebuild a Chimney

BRICK REPAIR AND FILING IN ALL THE GAPS ON THE CHIMENY

Let’s start with the brick to get it back into shape.  On most every chimney the water is leaking through the brick itself.  The mortar has weakened and thinned over time.  The water will find its way through the tiniest of cracks and begin to erode the mortar even worse.  The chimney must be completely tuck pointed and every gap, and hole must be filled with a proper mortar mix.  Sealants and cement mixes do not work and cannot be used.  The mortar must be a 3 to 1 mix in order for the new mortar to adhere to the old mortar.  Matching mortar colors can be a challenge.  We have no way to tell how much water, what type mortar or what color mortar was used many years ago at installation, so we do the best job we can at matching mortar colors.  Brick is porous and your chimney will last much longer with 3 coats of waterproofing material.  For all you Do It Yourselfers beware if you use the wrong product it can ruin your chimney.  We use only a water based clear, non-gloss material to stop the water from getting through.  This should be applied every 2 to 3 years.  Never install an oil based product on your chimney or it will stain and never come out of the brick.  In some cases the water will come directly through the brick itself causing your problem.

powerwash

Power wash entire chimney (Before)

powerwash

Power wash entire chimney (After)

chaiselout

CHISEL OUT ALL OF THE OLD LOOSE MORTAR

point gap

TUCK AND POINT ALL GAPS, CRACKS, OPEN AREAS WITH A 3 TO 1 SAND MORTAR MIX

water proofing

INSTALL 3 COATS OF INDUSTRIAL WATERPROOFING

TOP OF THE CHIMENY

There are 2 options we offer to seal up the top of the chimney and stop water from getting.  We will not install a galvanized chase because they fail very quickly in the Gulf Coast Area and create new water damage issues in every case.

The first repair involves building out a new concrete cap with a very expensive waterproofing compound in the cement.  The lifespan of the concrete cap can range from 3 to 5 years.  The other option we offer is installing a stainless steel chase.  This is three times the cost but offers a 10 year to lifetime lifespan.

Redo Concrete Cap Using Waterproof Compound In Cement

Concrete Capbefore

Before

Concrete Capafter

After

stainless stel rain cap

Install Stainless Steel Chase and Rain Cap

raisedcap

Install Raised Cap On Chimney

REPAIRING AND/OR REPLACING THE BOTTOM OF YOUR CHIMENY

In order to seal the bottom of the chimney we can do one of two things.  We can take out all of the shingles, underlay, old rusted flashing and all of the rotten deck boards.  We replace the wooden decking with high pressure treated lumber, replace the underlay with 30 pound synthetic underlay, the shingles, the step flashing and the counterflashing.  In taking all of this out we go back on with special products to keep water from getting underneath the shingles.  We use a product called Ice and Water Shield and put a galvanized valley on top of that to keep water going away from the chimney.  If you do not have a cricket on the back of your chimney we can build one out to keep the water from rushing down your roof, gaining speed and running into the back of your chimney.  This is an absolute must if you have a steeper slope causing water to go directly onto your flashing.  Even though you may not be able to see the damage in most cases the apron or flashing under the chimney is in very poor shape.  This is always a recommended way to make 100% sure you will be watertight.  We can do a seal on some chimneys where the flashing is newer and we do not expect and problems.  Examples of both are shown below

oldrusted

REMOVE OLD RUSTED APRON AND FLASHING

replacerotton

REPLACE ROTTEN DECKING AROUND CHIMNEY

CricketUsingIce

Install New Cricket Using Ice and Water Shield In Valleys & Around Chimney

Galvanized Valleys

Install Galvanized Valleys Over Ice and Water Shield

Local Home Remodeling Services

Install New Shingles With Criss-Cross Pattern For Tight Seal

If the flashing is not too bad, we can seal the bottom of the chimney with Flash Seal.  In most cases the flashing needs to be removed, but if we see a small issue we can use this product. This product is put on in 3 coats over a layer of fiberglass.  It starts on top of the shingles, runs over the flashing and onto the chimney forming a elastomeric boot over the entire bottom of the chimney.  This will eliminate any water from going in to the flashing.   This is half the price of tearing out the shingles, underlay and replacing all the flashing.

flashingreplace
flashingreplace
chimney34
Chimney Service

Install Step Flashing on Corners

install Chimney Service

Step Flashing All The Way around the Chimney

Cutting Taps

Cut Brick to Tap in Lip and Install Counter Flashing

install

Install Counterflashing

Galvanized Flashing

Final New Cricket, Flashing and Counterflashing with Stainless Steel Chase

Walls Repairs, Restoration

Seal Counterflashing with High Dollar Sealant